A postcard from Weymouth Esplanade

Postcard Series

Weymouth Esplanade is a broad street sweeping around the Bay towards the Pavilion Theatre

The old fairy lights along the Esplanade
The old fairy lights along the Esplanade

A brief history of Weymouth Esplanade

In the late 16th century, there was no sign of what was to become the Esplanade. There was a grassy strip, separating the small town of Melcombe Regis from the Beach. The only “construction” possibly marking the line of the future Esplanade was a defence platform. This guarded against French attacks. By the 1750’s, several bathing “buses” were in use. These allowed visitors to enjoy the health benefits of sea-bathing while protecting from the clay-like sea bed. Prince William Henry, Duke of Gloucester, built the first notable house along the shore-line (Gloucester Lodge). He urged his brother, KIng George III, to visit and the grand social life of Weymouth took off. The germ of Weymouth Esplanade began.

Replica of the type of bathing machine King George III would have used between about 1780 and 1805
Replica of the type of bathing machine King George III would have used between about 1780 and 1805, while staying at his brother’s residence, Gloucester Lodge
Statue commemorating King George III
Statue commemorating King George III, erected in 1801 at the meeting of Saint Thomas Street, Saint Mary Street and The Esplanade

Georgian Architecture on Weymouth Esplanade

Early on, it became apparent there was not enough accommodation of sufficient standard for visiting gentry. “Promenades” along the sea front became popular as crowds followed the King on his daily walks. Unfortunately, the sea front at that time consisted mostly of rear gardens and a long, thin rubbish dump of sorts. Consequently, visitors stayed in rather poor housing in the Town Centre. Andrew Sproule built the original Royal Hotel. The architect, Hamilton, designed new Georgian terraces, in sections, forming a broad curve along the sea front.

James Hamilton, Architect

The relatively unknown architect, James Hamilton developed the broad sweeping style of the Georgian Terraces. These have become a main characteristic of the Weymouth frontage. From repairs to the inner Harbour in 1797, through to design of the Osmington Hillside Carving in 1802 and George III commemorative statue in 1810, Hamilton gradually came to prominence.

Adapting to tourism

Because of increasing tourist numbers, owners used the terraces to provide lodgings for relatively wealthy guests and the Esplanade was “born”. To maintain consistent appearance, later infills generally matched the standard form of the main Georgian Terraces. Due to these efforts, by 1836, 184 of these buildings offered “superior” acommodation for guests.

Listed building Terraces

Hamilton designed the York buildings in the 1780’s, then Gloucester Row in the 1790’s and, to the South, Devonshire Buildings (1805) and Pulteney Buildings (1810), followed by Johnstone Row. His last work was Saint Mary’s Church in the Town. To match the rounded termination at Johnstone Row, in 1845, the Roundhouse, on the end of the Devonshire buildings, has a distinctive “lighthouse” appearance. The later Beach House on Brunswick Terrace is also in semi-circular form. English Heritage listed most of these terraces. Thus, they require to be of more or less uniform appearance and decoration.

General view of Weymouth sea front from the Peninsula Pier
General view of Weymouth sea front from the Peninsula Pier

Later developments

The Great Tempest of 1824 destroyed much of the new Esplanade, but rebuilding and further development quickly restarted. The retaining wall appeared in 1834. In 1887, the Victorians built the Jubilee Clocktower, to celebrate the Queen’s Jubilee. Two libraries flourished, along with Assembly Rooms and a Theatre near the present-day Bond Street. The Theatre closed in 1859. Around then, the arrival of railway services to Weymouth saw the advent of seaside holidays for the masses. Goerge Stevenson gifted an area of land (previously used as a communal midden) to the Town and this became known Alexandra Gardens. By 1924, it added a Theatre and then turned into an amusement arcade in the 1960’s.

In 1889, the Victorian shelters appeared along the Esplanade. By 1908, there was a new Theatre, The Pavilion, later The Ritz, sited at the Southern end of The Esplanade. A fire destroyed The Ritz in 1954 and the New Weymouth Pavilion was built on the same site in 1960.

The Esplanade in Wartime

During the Second World War, The Esplanade saw plenty of action, mainly leading up to the Normandy Landings. About 517,000 Allied Troops and over 100,000 vehicles travelled down the Esplanade to reach their embarkation points in the Harbour. A number of the sea front hotels were converted into military headquarters, with interconnecting doors still visible in some cases. In more recent times, the beach retaining wall was realigned and raised, along with broadening of the Esplanade itself.

The modern Esplanade

Currently, the Esplanade is a broad, sweeping road, stretching from Brunswick Terrace for over 800 metres to Weymouth Pavilion, on the Peninsula. There are only about 85 guesthouses and hotels operating currently. However, these are supplemented by various amusement arcades, shops and cafes. Rossi’s Ice Cream Parlour has been operating since 1934. Although the traffic is busy, it is still a splendid walk to enjoy the Georgian architecture on one side and the glorious sea view on the other. Modern additions include illuminated planters, flower beds and the old Lifeguard/Tourist Centre building is being renovated to become a “superloo” for visitors. New art-installation lighting coruscates with innumerable changing light patterns at night. A feast for the eyes!

One of the new illuminated flower beds along the Esplanade

A postcard from Weymouth Harbour

Postcard Series

Peace and quiet in Weymouth Harbour

Always relaxing to watch the boats go by with just the gulls for company

Weymouth Harbour has been a port since Roman times and played a role in many historical events. These included contributing vessels for the Siege of Calais, capture of San Salvador from the Spanish Armada, the English Civil War and D-Day. There is a plaque on the Harbourside denoting the site where Bubonic Plague (The Black Death) is thought to have entered Britain in 1348. Emigrants aboard The Charity founded Weymouth, Massachusetts.

Plaque to Richard Clark (discovering Newfoundland in 1585) and John Endicott (Pilgrim voyage to Salem, Massachusetts, 1628)
Plaque to Richard Clark (discovering Newfoundland in 1585) and John Endicott (Pilgrim voyage to Salem, Massachusetts, 1628)

Fisn and chips, peace and quiet

Today, the Harbour is a quiet and relaxing area to stroll or maybe sit and eat fish and chips while the boats go past. There are several excellent chippies to hand plus numerous fine pubs and restaurants. We especially like The Marlborough for fish and chips. However, Bennett’s is also good, as is Fish and Fritz. We find the gulls are not fussy and like everyone’s chips.

Gull waiting for your chips
Gull waiting for your chips

Benches have been added in recent years along the Eastern side of Weymouth Harbour. They are placed along the raised portion of the old railway platform. This makes for a restful location, above the traffic and bustle of the street. During the recent Covid-19 outbreak, the benches have provided rest, great views and an air of solitude for elderly walkers.

Evacuation of Alderney and Jersey residents commemorated in 1940, next to the ancient memorial to Clark and Endicott, near the Devonshire Buildings
Evacuation of Alderney and Jersey residents commemorated in 1940, next to the ancient memorial to Clark and Endicott, near the Devonshire Buildings

Ferry Trips

The old railway tracks are still there, dating from 1865 (cyclists beware!) The Fish Market has recently been refurbished and is becoming a Mecca for seafood connoisseurs. The Rowboat Ferry crosses the water to the Nothe Fort and Gardens – another haven of peace and quiet. The ferry ride across Weymouth Harbour affords excellent views of the Port from an unusual angle. One may also hire charter fishing boats or water taxis to Portland.